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Preparing to Send a Horse to a Trainer By Lydia K Kelly

Sending a horse away for training can be pretty stressful, especially if you don’t know what to send with him. Fortunately, it doesn’t need to be all that bad. With some planning ahead, and smart packing, your horse will soon be off to school, and you can relax and know that he’s all packed.

Feed

If your horse is on a special feed, you may want to keep him on it while away. Ask the trainer what they usually feed, and ask if you can send your own. Some trainers will give a discount on their board if you supply your own feed, so be sure to ask up front.

Pack your feed in a large plastic garbage bin with a lid that seals. The ones with wheels work the best as they are easy to move around, even when full. You can use a permanent marker on the lid to write your horse’s name and how much feed he gets. Include a scoop so that the measurements will be accurate. Make sure your horse’s name is on the scoop too, so it won’t go missing.

Finally, if your horse requires any supplements or medications, you should include them with the feed. Once again, write the dosage and your horse’s name on the container.

Equipment

Usually a trainer will use her own saddles and bridles. If your horse needs custom tack, you will probably want to send it along with him. You can get your name installed on the cantle of your saddle at your local tack shop so that it can’t be mistaken for someone else’s saddle. If you have a special bit or bridle you can send it along too, but always ask the trainer before sending any tack. Bridles can be labeled with a name plate over the crown.

Your horse will of course need a halter. The halter should be correctly fitted to your horse and should have his name clearly marked on it. It should be in good repair. Some trainers will insist on a leather halter, but most will leave it to the owner’s preference. Find out if the barn leaves halters on for turn-out or in the stall. If they do, consider a break-away crown piece made from leather or a leather halter.

While a leadrope might be necessary at some trainers’ facilities, most barns have their own leads. Yours will likely grow legs and walk, so it is better to leave it at home. Fly masks are a good addition in the summer, but once again should be clearly labeled with permanent marker. If your horse requires boots or bandages for turn-out or when working, include them, but make sure your horse’s name is on them.

Should your horse require blanketing, send along any blankets he wears. Make sure that they are in good repair and are labeled. The fewer blankets you send, the better. Many barns do not like complicated blanketing plans, so do your best to keep things simple.

Paperwork

Something many people may not think of is including paperwork with their horse. Make up a binder to hold this information and clearly mark it with both your name and your horse’s name. One page should include information about your horse: his barn name, his registered name, his age, his breed, his height, his color, any markings, any special needs he might have. Another page should have all of your information: your name, address, phone number, an emergency contact. This page should also include the contact information for your vet and farrier. While the trainer may prefer to use her own vet and farrier, she may need to contact yours in an emergency. A third page should include all your horse’s usual care routines. Discuss his turn-out routine, current training schedule, feed schedule, and any quirks he may have.

Sometimes a horse that goes to a trainer is for sale. If so, include in the binder information about your horse that would be suitable to give to a potential buyer. Make at least 10 copies of the sales sheet so the trainer does not have to worry about giving out the only copy. Include a photocopy of your horse’s papers if he is registered.

Another thing to consider is that your trainer may ask for a commission if she finds a buyer for your horse. Make sure that you have a clear contract for the sale ready and have your trainer sign it. You will also want to include a copy of the boarding/training agreement in the binder and some kind of a liability waiver that keeps the trainer or her staff from suing you should they be injured by your horse.

Extras

Generally, the less you send with your horse the better. Anything you send has the potential to get lost, so try not to send anything too valuable. Consumables like fly spray will likely be used on the other horses, so don’t expect it to be kept exclusively for your horse’s use. Label everything clearly with permanent marker to reduce the chance of losing it and to minimize illegitimate use. Find out how much space will be available to your horse for his equipment, and send along a safe container in which to store his things. An alternate idea is to get a cloth bag which could be hung from his halter hook, or from the blanket rack.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298009&ca=Pets

What Should A Weanling Know? By Lydia K Kelly

When you wean your foal, he should already know how to lead. He should have the basics of being groomed in his stall, and should have been introduced to the vet and farrier. But what more can you do with him once his mother has been taken away?

While a foal learns to lead with his mother, he may not yet be comfortable leading on his own. You will need to work with him to teach him to move forward when asked without having another horse to lead the way. By spending a few minutes a day leading him by himself, you can quickly help him to understand that he must go where you want him to, and not necessarily where the other horses are going.

Because he learned to lead with his dam, it is very easy to teach a foal to lead with another horse. It is generally best to start with a mature horse as it is hard to manage two silly babies at once, while a mature horse is likely to remain calm and stabilize your weanling should he become spooked by something.

Take the time to work with your weaning by taking him on walks around the property. Start out with another horse, so that he does not become afraid by himself, but then progress to leading him on his own. Keep the sessions short. Weanlings have no attention span. Always end on a good note.

While it is still too early to tie your horse, take the time to teach him to stand still in the aisle. When grooming him in his stall, ask him to remain in one place, instead of allowing him to wander. This way, he will already be used to staying put, and will accept being tied more easily.

If you can, take your weanling on a trip or two in the trailer. Borrow a calm older horse who trailers well, and take them for s short jaunt around the block. The trip does not need to be long, but it should be pleasant.

It is also a good idea to introduce your weanling to blankets and bandages. Use a no-chew spray to teach him that it isn’t fun to eat them. Bandage him or blanket him, then let him hang out in his stall for a while. Keep an eye on him at first, to make sure that he does not panic.

Continue grooming him regularly, and introduce the clippers. Work on getting him to hold his feet up longer, and try gently pulling his mane. It will take a few sessions to do a good job. It is better to keep the sessions short and sweet than to rush them.

While handling your weanling is important, make sure that he gets tons of turn-out and does not become frustrated with overlong sessions. He is still a baby and needs to enjoy himself. He has lots to learn about being a horse, and spending time outside with his buddies is an essential part of his training.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298156&ca=Pets

What Should a Yearling Know? By Lydia K Kelly

By the time a horse is a year old, he is already getting pretty big. It is difficult to train him if he does not already have solid foundations. He should already know how to lead, stand for being groomed, and behave for the vet and farrier.

The next stage is to teach your horse how to tie. It is important to wait until he is at least a year old before tying, as it takes time for the spine to mature enough to cope with the stress of a possible accident. Youngsters also tend to be more prone to silliness and are more likely to have problems with breaking away.

It is easiest to start with teaching your horse to crosstie. If you have worked with him at standing still for grooming, he will already know that he should stand quietly as you brush him. Stand him in the aisle, where you have the crossties set up, and groom him while holding the lead rope. Keep him standing in place, as though he were tied.

Once he is comfortable with this, add the crossties. Keep a lead rope attached to him, and hold it as you groom. If he steps out of line, gently ask him to return to where he was standing. If he does pull back on the ties, be sure to correct with the lead rope before he overstresses the crossties. As he gets used to the idea, throw the lead over your horse’s neck so that it is still close at hand, but you are not actively holding him. Finally, you can remove the lead, and he should stand quietly in the crossties.

You can continue your training in hand with your yearling. You can take him for walks around the farm, and work with him in the ring. Many shows have classes for showmanship or for conformation on the line. Take the time to teach your horse to trot in hand, and to stand up for the judge.

Line shows are a great way to prepare your baby for his future as a performance horse. He will get a chance to see what horse shows are all about in a low-stress environment. Go out for the experience, and not for the prizes. You can even go out to shows without actually going in the ring, just walking around the show grounds and letting your youngster experience the show grounds.

Other fun things to try include walking your horse over poles, teaching him to free longe and teaching him to free jump. Make sure that you keep things low impact, and don’t overdo it. Yearlings do not have a lot of patience and will easily get burned out.

Whatever your do, remember, yearlings are not mature enough to be ridden. Don’t even think about getting on his back, even if he looks big and strong. Serious damage can be done to a yearling if he is ridden. It is worth taking the time to wait until he is mature enough to hold your weight without injury.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298158&ca=Pets

Horse Tack - Which Martingale Should I Use? By Lydia K Kelly

There are two basic types of martingales, the standing martingale and the running martingale. Depending on your discipline and your purpose, both have their place in your training repertoire.

Standing martingales are common in the hunter ring. They are legal for use over fences, but are not acceptable on the flat.

A standing martingale consists of a strap that leads from the noseband to the girth, held in place by a second strap that wraps around the neck. It is a passive aid, meaning that the rider has no active influence on its action.

If a horse lifts its head, or flips it into the air, the standing martingale will become tight, preventing the action. In the western world, a similar device is called a tie-down.

While the martingale prevents the horse from lifting its head too high, it does not tie the horse’s head down. This would in fact interfere with the horse while jumping, which would be foolish.

The theory is that the martingale prevents the horse from leaning on the rider’s hands while working. This may be true, but it is probably more because the horse winds up leaning on the martingale than because it stops the horse from leaning in the first place.

In the hunter ring, wearing a standing martingale is more of a fashion statement than a necessity. Most hunters who wear standing martingales would do fine without. Unfortunately, many riders have made a habit of using them, and many horses have developed bad habits because of them.

Running martingales are not legal in the hunter ring, but are common in the jumper ring. Instead of connecting to the noseband, a running martingale splits into two straps that end in rings. The reins are run through the rings so that the martingale can pull against each rein when the rein is tightened.

Running martingales are active aids. This is because the rider’s use of the reins activates the martingale. They should always be used with blocks on the reins to keep the rings from running up to the horse’s mouth where they could interfere with the bit.

Running martingales are great for helping to control strong horses. By directing the pull of the rein downwards, they add leverage to the rider’s aid, and force the horse to drop his head. Most horses who run away tend to stick their heads and necks straight out. By forcing the horse to drop his chin, you break his run so that he must slow down and begin to listen.

In the jumper ring many horses grow excited and tend to forget to pay attention to their riders. The running martingale allows the rider that extra little bit of leverage to regain their attention and keep the horse on course.

Racehorse riders often use a modified running martingale with a bib attached between the two parts of the martingale. The bib keeps the ring of the martingale even with each other, and allows the rider to apply even pressure on both reins.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=299034&ca=Pets

How a Horse Travels - Understanding Different Loading Styles By Lydia K Kelly

Horse trailers come in several different loading and shipping styles. Each style offers advantages and disadvantages to the owner and the horse. When purchasing a horse trailer it is important to consider which style best suits you and your horse.

Straight Load

This is the most common load style. In a straight load trailer, horses are brought in from the back and are tied side-by-side, facing the front of the trailer. There is usually a partition in the middle of the trailer, protecting the horses from banging into one another. Some straight loads have partitions to the ground, while others only have bars to separate the horses. You can also get partitions that separate the horses at the front of the trailer so that they cannot bite one another.

Because these are so common, most used trailers you will see for sale will be steel straight loads. Unfortunately, they may not be the best trailer for your needs. Studies on transporting horses have shown that facing straight ahead is in fact harder on a horse than traveling facing rearward or on an angle. Another disadvantage of straight loads is that most are designed to only allow horses to unload backwards, something many horses are uncomfortable with.

Slant Load

In recent years, the slant load trailer has become highly popular. Horses are loaded from the back of the trailer, and are squeezed into stalls with swinging dividers that hold them into a slant load position. Because of the angle at which the horses stand, there is usually a triangle-shaped cubby at the front of the trailer that is often converted into a tack room. There is also a space at the back that is not used, and may be converted into a small storage area. Many slant loads offer front unloading ramps so that the horses can get off more easily. This also makes it possible to take a horse off who was loaded at an earlier stage of the trip.

The slant load position is supposed to be far more comfortable to the horse when traveling. The increased space occupied by the horse in a slant load makes the trailer size larger than a straight load. If purchasing a steel trailer, this added length also needs to be considered as added weight. A three horse slant load is the same size as the average four horse straight load.

Head-to-Head

A common loading solution for show trailers, this configuration allows horses to be loaded so that half are facing to the front and half are facing to the back. The ramp is placed on the side of the trailer so that horses can walk straight on and off without difficulty. One big advantage of this style of trailer is that you can unload any one horse without disturbing the other horses, making it the perfect solution for horse shows.

The center space does add a bit of length, but can sometimes be used for an extra small horse or pony. The ramps are generally fairly steep, and need to have side panel to prevent a horse from falling off the side. Some horses are intimidated by this style of trailer at first, but most get used to it quite quickly.

Stock

Stock trailers are open concept. They are made up of one or more box stalls with a gate that splits the trailer in the middle. Horses can be tied so that they face forward, backward or are slant loaded. You can also ship horses loose in one of the box stalls.

Stock trailers are probably the most flexible trailers for shipping large numbers of horses. The do not offer the protection of dividers, but they do allow the horses to position themselves comfortably for the trip. They are also the safest way to ship mares and foals, or youngstock. Most stock trailers have rear step-ups, but some do come with ramps.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298813&ca=Pets

What Types of Horse Trailers Are Out There? By Lydia K Kelly

If you are considering buying a horse trailer, it is easy to feel overwhelmed by the wide selection available on the market. From front facing to slant load to stock trailers, everyone claims that their trailer is the best and will be perfect for your needs.

Before buying a trailer, you need to consider what you need it for. Will you be showing a lot? Are you traveling long distances? Do you need a space to keep your tack? Then you need to consider what types of horses you will be shipping. Are they large? Small? Will you be shipping many horses, or only one or two? Are the horses good buddies, or are they likely to be strangers? All of these things and more will make a difference as you select your trailer.

Horse trailers come in many loading styles. The traditional two-horse trailer is a rear-loading trailer where both horses stand facing forward with a partition of some sort between them. These trailers are practical for many horse owners, and are easy to find.

Another common style is the head to head trailer. This usually has a side loading ramp, and the horses are set up so that half are facing forward while the other half face backward. Sometimes there is room to fit a small horse or pony in the middle. Generally these are two to six-horse trailers.

Slant loads tend to need more length for less horses, but offer a position that makes traveling easier on the horses. The partitions can be rather snug, giving the horses less wiggle room. Generally the waste space at the front of the trailer is made into storage rooms, suitable for keeping your tack on the trip. The average slant load trailer for three horses is about the same size as a straight load trailer for four horses.

Stock trailers do not have any dividers between the horses, but are often split into two large box stalls. They allow the horses room to choose their own position as they travel. One disadvantage is that there is no protection keeping horses from hurting one another while in transit.

A more recent innovation is the two + one style of trailer. This type of trailer combines a two-horse straight load with a one horse box stall in front. This box stall is small, and can be used for tack and equipment if you do not want to load a horse in it.

Each style of trailer can be found in step up or ramp load. Steps ups can be useful for difficult loaders as there is not hollow-sounding ramp to travel on. Ramps are generally safer though, although steep ramps need to have side panels to keep horses from stepping off the side by accident.

Some trailers come with built in tack rooms, and even changing rooms. While they add length, these can be very useful if you show a lot, or don’t have extra room in your towing vehicle.

Finally, there are two primary types of hitch to consider. Bumper pull hitches are the most common, and can be used with a wide range of vehicles. They are great for smaller trailers, but not as secure for the bigger ones. Horse trailers should never be actually hooked onto a bumper – the hitch must be properly installed onto the frame of the towing vehicle.

Gooseneck hitches are more secure and are perfect for larger trailers. They also offer storage space in the neck, which can be useful if your trailer does not have a tack room. The problem with goosenecks is that you need a pick-up truck to pull them, and the hitch must be installed in the bed of your truck.

While you can find fifth-wheel hitches on horse trailers, they are uncommon.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=299030&ca=Pets

Horse Color Genetics - And All of the Other Colors (Part 3) By Lydia K Kelly

As we have previously discussed, horses have two basic color genes, black (B) and red (b). Bay horses happen because a special modifier gene called the agouti gene makes the black coat color fade into brown, leaving the points black. But this only covers the more basic colors. What about the others?

Each color is created by some form of modifying gene. These genes can be layered on top of each other, so that you can wind up with a buckskin horse that has pinto markings that fade to gray. To keep things simple we will look at several of the most common color modifiers one at a time.

A color modifier that is especially popular is the cream gene. This is the gene that causes horses to be buckskins or palominos. The cream gene is a dominant gene. Not only is it dominant, but it also expresses itself differently according to how many copies there are of the gene in a horse.

Let’s start with a chestnut horse. Genetically the horse is (bb), which give it the characteristic red color. Now let’s add a single copy of the cream gene. Now the horse is (bb Cc) which means that it is a diluted red color which is palomino. If you add a second copy of the cream gene (bb CC) the dilution is stronger and the horse is a cremello with pink skin and blue eyes.

When you add the cream gene to a bay horse you wind up with a buckskin. With a second copy of the cream gene the horse is a double dilute called a perlino. Blacks are affected a bit differently. A single copy of the cream gene makes a smoky black which visually shows very little difference to a regular black. However, when the cream gene is homozygous it expresses itself full strength and produces a creamy black.

Color breeders particularly covet the cremello or perlino horse for their breeding programs. This is because no matter what color of horse you breed to, the foal is guaranteed to express some form of the cream gene. This is why you will often see cremello stallions advertised with a 100% color guarantee.

Other genes that dilute the color of the coat include the champagne gene, the dun gene and the silver gene. A horse with the champagne gene can be “gold” (on chestnut), “amber” (on bay) or “classic” (on black). The dun gene causes the black stripe you sometimes see on horses’ backs. Silver horses have light colored manes and tails caused by a dilution of the expression of the black color, but not of the red/brown shades.

Another color modifier that is frequently seen is the roan gene. Like the cream gene, the roan gene is dominant. If a horse is not roan it cannot have a roan foal. A true roan will have fine white hairs throughout their coat with the exclusion of their face and legs. While they are often mistaken for grays, especially in the case of blue roans (roan on black) they do not fade the way a gray will over time.

An interesting fact about roans is that there is no such thing as a homozygous roan. This was first discovered when the conception rates of breedings where two roan horses were crossed together were decidedly lower than that of other horses. In fact there were 25% fewer live foals from these breedings. From this they were able to deduce that when an embryo carries two copies of the roan gene the combination is lethal and the embryo dies. If you take a look at the following chart, where (R) signifies the roan gene and (r) signifies no roan gene, you will see why the ratio of lethal foals was 25%.

(R) (r)
(R) (RR)
No foal (Rr)
roan
(r) (rR)
roan (rr)
plain

Now that we have been able to isolate the roan gene this has been proven in DNA studies.

Possibly the base of color breeders is the gray gene. This highly dominant gene will wash out any effects seen from other color modifiers. A horse with the gray gene is often born without any sign of graying. As it ages the gray begins to show. Some horses will grey following a “fleabitten” pattern while others have a “dapple” pattern. The two genes are different, but both have the same overall result. Eventually a gray horse will loose all color from their coats and will be white in color. Because they are born with dark skin these horses are not true whites, instead they are called grays.

There are many other color modifying genes. Some have been mapped out in DNA studies. Others are still a mystery. By studying the traits of each color gene you can have a reasonable way to guess what your foal may turn out like once it has arrived. Certainly there are still many aspects that will be unknown, but at least you can have a reasonably good idea of what color your baby could be.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=299041&ca=Pets

How to Clean a Horse Saddle By Lydia K Kelly

If you own your own saddle, it is very important to keep it clean. This is what keeps the leather in good condition and maximizes the longevity of your saddle.

A saddle should be lightly cleaned at least once a week, and thoroughly cleaned at least once a month. The more often you ride, the more often you should clean it. Even if you have not been riding, a saddle in storage benefits from a once-monthly cleaning and oiling. If well cared for a saddle can last 50 or more years. If left alone, it will become damaged and will quickly lose value.

To begin, you will need a small bucket of warm water, a bar of saddle soap, a jug of saddle oil or conditioner, and two sponges. You may find a soft toothbrush useful for getting grit out of the holes, or tooling.

Place your saddle on a secure stand. This can easily be made out of wood, or you can purchase a saddle stand at your tack shop.

Moisten your first sponge and lather it with soap. Starting on the seat, gently scrub your saddle with the soapy sponge. You do not want to make your saddle wet, so be sure to wring most of the water out of your sponge. Rinse it regularly, and add fresh soap.

You will need to clean every surface of the leather. This means both the finished surface, and the underside of each part of your saddle. After scrubbing each section with soap, rinse the sponge and wipe any excess soap off the leather. Use the toothbrush to remove any soap caught in the billet holes or in fancy tooling.

Some parts of your saddle are removable. Take off the stirrups and stirrup leathers, being sure to remember both what holes you had been using, and how they go onto your saddle. If you have metal stirrups, take out the rubber treads and soak both the metal and rubber parts in your water. Do not soak the leathers – clean them with saddle soap, the same way you cleaned the rest of the saddle.

Be careful not to forget to clean the underside of your saddle. This can be one of the dirtiest parts of your saddle, particularly if your horse sweats a lot. Sweat can really damage leather, so it is very important to clean it off.

Once the saddle is clean, moisten the second sponge so that it is soft and pliable. Squeeze out any excess water. Now moisten the sponge with your leather conditioner. Without making a thick layer of oil on the leather, wipe the entire surface of your saddle with leather conditioner. It should all absorb into the leather. Any excess should quickly be wiped up as it can discolor the leather. Be sure to oil the stirrup leathers and any other pieces you may have removed.

Finally, take the stirrups out of the water and scrub off any remaining dirt with the toothbrush. You do not need soap or oil on the stirrups, unless you have leather stirrups (which you would not have dunked in water in the first place).

Put your saddle back together, making sure any parts you removed are replaced properly.

You can find quick fix products for cleaning your tack. While these are ok for situations where you just want to tidy things up, or after every ride, they are not suitable for a thorough cleaning. Many leave residue that can gunk up in the long run.

When selecting a type of oil, be aware that some oils, like Neatsfoot Oil, will darken the leather. Others, such as Lexol, will not. Some oils may leave residue on the seat, and could stain your breeches. Talk to your local tack shop if you are in doubt about the best product for your needs.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298818&ca=Pets

Adopting A Puppy - What You Need To Know By Adam Katz

This was a last minute e-mail I sent to a friend in California, who contacted me only a few hours befote she was leaving to pick a puppy from a breeder she's been researching.

(EMAIL FROM ME, STARTS HERE)

Actually, everything looks really good - for a show breeder. And even better, what I really like is that she's doing things with the dogs (using them in commercials) - which to me, suggests that the dogs she's breeding should (in theory, anyway) have solid temperaments.

The only thing I really wasn't crazy about is the way her dogs look. I don't like the pigment or the luster of the coats. But really, that's more of a personal preference, as I'm not a show breed judge.

I also like that she gets the pups started with crate training.

The main test I recommend is that you should cradle the pup in your arms, so that its feet are up toward your chin, and its back is cupped in your hands. The pup should lie still, like a sack of potatoes and just gaze sweetly up into your eyes. If he won't let you turn him upside down, or won't stop squirming... throw him back and pick another one.

If he passes that test, the next one should be to pin him on his side. He might squirm a little bit at first but then settle down and let you hold him in that position... at least for 10-20 seconds.

And finally, find a metal bowl... or something that makes a lot of noise... like a ring of about 20 keys... and while the pups are playing, toss the bowl or object about five feet from the pups (the breeder won't like this, but ignore it, you're picking a companion for the next 15 years, and you want to make sure you get a good one! So don't ask permission... just do it!) Watch the pups. Good pups should run up to it to investigate. Weak pups will cringe and hide. Do not buy a pup that cringes and hides. If the dog just shows indifference, this is okay... but then I'm going to test to see if the pup is deaf or not. If he's not deaf (clap, or shake keys behind the pup, when he's not looking)... but he was still indifferent to the bowl drop... then the dog is still one I WILL consider.

This is really all you need if you're choosing a dog for a pet. You can also test his ball drive, but to be honest, for a pet that's just going to lounge around the house, a pronounced ball drive is unnecessary.

She seems like a good breeder, as far as one can tell from a web site. So, I'm sure she'll help you out. Just be honest about what you are and aren't looking for in a dog.

That's all for now, folks!
Adam

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=69169&ca=Pets

Exploring the World of Pomeranian Pet - Sitting By Kritthaphat N.

As the number of Pomeranian pet owners increases day by day, the Pomeranian world of pet-sitting grows correspondingly bigger and bigger. Come and let’s explore this world.

Pomeranian pet-sitting is a whole lot similar to baby-sitting. In fact the only material difference would be is that in pet-sitting, the subject is the Pomeranian while in baby-sitting; you’re taking good care of a human being, a baby, in the comforts of their own home.

As pet aficionados recognize the importance of the service while they are away from home and have to leave their pets behind, there are many advantages of using pet-sitting services. Among them are:

• Hiring a pet-sitter to take good care of your Pomeranian at home while you are away dramatically reduces the “trauma” caused by travelling your Pomeranian. With the home environment setting, the Pomeranian is more secured in his turf rather than being transported elsewhere.

• Your Pomeranian can continue to do the usual things that he has been accustomed to without extra effort on his part to take on a new environment. This also minimizes to a large extent the resulting stress.

• On your part, you save yourself from inconveniencing your family, friend, or neighbor or save yourself from the embarrassment of being rejected or fury over unkind family, friend, or neighbor.

• You will have the assurance and the peace of mind that you are leaving your Pomeranian in good hands.

• You can do things conveniently that otherwise you would not be able to do.

When deciding to use the pet-sitting services, these are some helpful reminders:

• Choose a pet-sitter that is known to treat pets like a human being, and you will trust enough to leave you Pomeranian with.

• Compare and contrast at least three pet-sitting services, so you can strike the best deal.

• Take some effort to know more about the pet-sitter. Remove all doubts. You wouldn’t want to risk your pet to someone that you don’t trust enough.

• Check the track record and credibility of the pet-sitting services. Go for high quality services. It may costs a few cents more, but the security and safety of your Pomeranian, and your peace of mind that you get from this are incomparable.

It will also be beneficial to check a few more things prior to leaving your Pomeranian with your chosen pet-sitter:

• Prepare all the necessary supplies that the pet-sitter may need while you are away. Things like food, water, and toys are basic but oftentimes neglected. Check some first-aid medicines too, for emergency purposes.

• Orient the pet-sitter with basic and other helpful information about your pet. Although there are general characteristics, pets may have certain character that is distinct and solely theirs.

• Introduce the pet-sitter to your Pomeranian. This breed is known to have little tolerance to strangers. Introducing his pet-sitter will at least allow for your pet to be more tolerable.

• Write step-by-step instructions that you would want the pet-sitter to do while you are away. You can also increase accountability in doing so.

• Get your pet-sitter’s contact number and give your contact number as well. You may also need to leave other numbers such as your pet’s veterinary and the alternative numbers where you can be reached for emergency.

Although pet-sitting is a world full of commitment, accountability, and responsibility, it is also a world of fun, love, and laughter especially when you have found just the right sitter, and when that sitter treats your pet as his own.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=297386&ca=Pets

High Level Assessment of the Patio Pet Door Produced by PetSafe By Trevor Price

The deluxe Patio Pet Door by PetSafe is designed to be easily customizable to almost any sliding patio door. With its spring action tension, you should have a doggie (or kittie) door up and running in minutes. But, will it stay in place? Can it really be as simple as PetSafe says? For a helpful review of the product, read on.

Main Features

The main feature of the PetSafe Patio Pet Door is that it's adjustable, allowing it to fit into almost any patio door system without the need for cutting or screwing. The next best advantage on this innovative product is that it's lockable, with a reversible lock that you can place on the right or left. For added security, the deluxe version comes with a stronger, more durable lock.

Last but not least, the PetSafe patio door comes with a lifetime warranty - protecting you against product failure.

Cost of the Product

The deluxe Patio Pet Door usually sells for just over $155. It's more expensive than cut-in doors, especially if you're doing the work yourself, but a great solution for renters or those on the move. Also, if you need to hire a contractor to install a permanent door, you could wind up paying a lot more.

Quality of the Product

Many homeowners complain about the low-quality sealant and weather stripping that comes with the PetSafe patio door. It's simply not enough to hold the door in place or keep inclement weather out and your valuable heating or air conditioning in.

As a solution, many owners are purchasing their own silicone sealant and weather stripping to bring the PetSafe patio door up to par. So, when comparing this product or budgeting, expect to pay an additional $10 to $15 for better-quality stripping and sealant supplies.

Is it Easy to Install?

As long as your sliding patio door is no lower than 77 ¾' and no higher than 82', you can pop the PetSafe patio door right into place. However, once you've got the door in vertically, you may have to do some minor adjusting to get the right sideways fit.

Be prepared to install your own weather stripping and sealant to make sure the door fits tightly and with a good seal. Next, have a drill and screwdriver on hand so you can screw the PetSafe patio door into place. That said, with all the work, it's still an easy install and shouldn't take more than half an hour to get into place.

Drawbacks

Next to the weather stripping problem, the main issue most buyers have with this product is the gap around the pet door flap. Whether it's letting in air or bugs and creatures, it can become a real issue. Try weighting the bottom or installing your own piece of heavy-duty plastic.

Final Considerations

For the price, the PetSafe Deluxe Patio Pet Door is a great buy. It provides a temporary solution and doesn't require any major carpentry. However, homeowners need to be prepared to do a little extra work to make this pet door really 'fit.'

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298360&ca=Pets

Raising Happy Dogs By Kritthaphat N.

Among a variety of pets to choose from, dogs are probably the best companions you could ever ask for. They are loyal, extremely intelligent, and courageous. You’ve probably heard a handful of stories about a dog’s unconditional love for his master.

As a pet owner, it is of course your responsibility to give back this love to man’s best friend. Pets, like us, also crave for attention and love in order to live happily. But compared to human beings, the needs of our canine friends are easily ignored as we attend to our daily affairs. Many dog owners tend to underestimate the value of playing and cuddling with their pets.

You might think that as long as you are not cruel to your dog and you provide him enough food and warm shelter, then that should be enough. This is a huge misconception that we should not dwell on. Dogs need to feel affection on a daily basis, too. Ignoring them could be considered what we may call “benign neglect.”

Sad to say, it is not uncommon for us to see canine pets chained and living alone in their backyard doghouses. While abuse against animals could never be tolerated, neglect is also a form of unintentional abuse that cause suffering to our pet dogs. Lack of attention could also spur animal behavioral problems as they grow older.

Dogs sometimes annoy us if they bark incessantly or are too hyperactive. What we usually do not see is that they feel lonely. You’ll be surprised how simple tasks such as walking and talking with your dog, giving it a bath, and just lounging and messing around could have very good effect on your pets’ mood and disposition.

Dog Training

Training your pet dogs early will also prove beneficial to their growth as happy and healthy pets. Trained dogs are happier compared to their untrained counterparts because they find themselves welcome in the company of more people. They are well-behaved and disciplined, earning them the praise and fondness of their owners, as well as strangers. They could even be taken along on outdoor trips because they always do what they’re told.

Dogs could live up to 16 years old. It would be best to start training your dog very early in her life. You do not necessarily have to hire an expert dog trainer to achieve this. The three most important concepts in dog training are consistency, patience, and positive motivation.

Start by simple commands such as “Sit” and “Stay.” Give your dog food treats if she has followed your order. Use your dog’s name often but be firm. Repetition will help your dog remember her training lessons. It is not advisable to implement punishment for unruly behavior.

It would be good to remember that dogs are still pack animals. It is their instinct to play, eat, and sleep together with their own kind. In the absence of dog companions, it should be the duty of pet owners to fulfill this missing factor in his pet’s life. It should not even be treated as an obligation as much as it should be seen as a privilege.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=297960&ca=Pets

Living it up With Pomeranian By Kritthaphat N.

So you want to live with a pet dog in your apartment? Why not go for a Pomeranian? He makes an excellent companion in your apartment.

Apartment living with your Pomeranian may mean he sleeps in your bed more often than he does in his own bed. He may sit with you in your sofa, while watching your favorite television show. He may roam around the apartment, going wherever you go. Or he may simply want to hang around his pet furniture, enjoying the control he has over his own turf.

Providing your pet with his own furniture is something that a Pomeranian will cherish. Choosing the right furniture is vital especially in an apartment living where space matters.

Here are two of the frequently use pet furniture that goes well with apartment living:

1. Litter box. A litter box is often associated with cats or kittens that sometimes people call this as a kitty box or cat box. But there are also litter boxes or pans that are available to dogs especially to aid you in your housebreak training. There are many litter boxes or pans available in the market that you can choose from to suit your apartment requirements.

2. Your Pomeranian will love to have his own bed in the same way that both of you love to cuddle together in your bed. Just like you, he may want to have a bed that is comfortable enough to get plenty of sleep and relaxation. You will also observe that your pet Pomeranian, when not sleeping with you in your bed, love to be under some furniture. This gives him a feeling of security and safety. With your limited space in your apartment, be sure to get just the right size and comfort for your Pomeranian.

Just as important in choosing the right pet furniture for your Pomeranian, is also training him to avoid chewing your own furniture. If you don’t give the right training then chewing furniture can be a habit that will be hard to break. You can always pet-proof your important furniture so that when you’re away from home, you Pomeranian knows how to take care of them in as much as you do. A good training is to provide your dog with better alternatives like his own chewable toys. Educate him that his toy is more enjoyable to chew than the furniture. Most of the times, a Pomeranian will chew hard furniture to soothe his teething discomfort. With this, you have to give him a teething toy just as you would an infant who has teething issues. It is also better to consult with his veterinary to properly address the issue. Whatever tools that you choose to prevent your Pomeranian from chewing your furniture, remember his safety comes first.

Apartment living with your Pomeranian can be a breeze as long as you know how to train your pet, choose the right pet furniture, and above all you must fulfill your responsibilities as a Pomeranian owner who knows how to love and care for his pet.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=297383&ca=Pets

Horse Saddles - The Right Fit By Lydia K Kelly

When buying a saddle, be it new or used, it is very important that the saddle not only fit you, but that it also fits your horse. While some saddles can be re-stuffed, only so much can be changed through the re-stuffing process. It is best to find a saddle that fits well in the first place.

Most retailers will permit buyers to take home a saddle to try on their horse. Some will charge a deposit or even the full price in advance, but will accept the return if the saddle does not fit. As long as you do not damage the saddle, most will accept a return without difficulty.

Saddles are measured according to the length of the seat. A 16” saddle measures 16” from the pommel to the cantle. With this in mind, you need to consider how big a saddle you need to comfortably sit in. The average adult is comfortable in a 17” seat. Teenagers can generally manage a 16”, while children often need something smaller.

If possible, try sitting on a few different sizes of saddles to see what size of seat best suits your needs. Keep in mind that the higher the pommel and cantle, the tighter the fit will be.

As long as the saddle feels comfortable to sit in, your will probably be in good shape as a rider. Keep in mind the height of the pommel and cantle, and the positioning of the padding. Some saddles offer adjustable padding, particularly in the knee roll.

The rest of the fitting is related to your horse. Saddles come in three basic tree sizes, narrow, medium and wide. Most horses will fit a medium tree. Fine boned horses such as Arabians, sometimes need a narrow tree to fit the structure of their back. Wide trees are suited to horses with broad backs such as warmbloods or draft crosses.

When the tree is the correct width, the saddle should sit evenly on your horse’s back with both sets of padding resting on the muscles along the backbone. There should be a clear gap along the spine all the way from the front to the back of the saddle. If there is no gap, the tree is too wide. If the padding is sitting on the backbone, the tree is too narrow. Some saddles have adjustable trees, making them great for riders who need to ride a range of horses who may have different body types.

Next, you need to consider the pommel. While the height of the pommel affects your seat, it also relates to the horse’s whither. If your horse has a high whither, you might need a saddle with a higher pommel. Some saddles have cut-back pommels which are designed to offer room for a particularly high whither.

Finally, the flaps need to rest comfortably along the horse’s shoulder and side. The front edge should not rest off the horse’s side, nor should it dig into his shoulder. A properly fitted saddle should rest smoothly along your horse’s side, with no air space or pinched places.

To check your saddle’s fit, place it on your clean horse’s back without any padding. With a helper to hold the saddle secure, take a good look at how the saddle fits upon your horse. Note any spaces or places where it rubs. If the saddle does not appear to fit, don’t try to ride in it, just return it to the store and discuss the issues you found with the supplier.

If it seems to fit, remove the saddle, and add a clean, thin saddle pad. Fasten the saddle, and see how it looks when the girth is tight. Then try riding in it. Give you horse a good workout, doing whatever you normally would do with him. If he seems sore, stop you ride, and take off the saddle. Ideally, you want to get your horse into a light sweat, just enough to see how the saddle sits on his back while he works.

Remove the saddle when you are done, and check your horse’s back. Are the sweat marks evenly matched from one side of your horse to the other? Are there any places that seem to be more worn than others? If the sweat marks are even, and the weight appears to have been distributed evenly throughout the saddle, your saddle fits. Any uneven wear is a sign that it does not fit correctly.

Be sure to lightly clean the saddle before returning it to the store. Sweat can damage the material if left on the saddle for any length of time, and it looks bad to return the saddle with signs of wear and tear. Do not use the saddle for more than one test ride. Let the store owner know how your ride went, and either return or keep the saddle depending on how well it fit.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298831&ca=Pets

Horse Riding - The Importance of the Helmet By Lydia K Kelly

While people are becoming more aware of the need for head safety, somehow the equestrian world has missed the boat. Cyclists are wearing helmets, worrying about the potential impact should they fall or be hit by a car. And yet, riders on living, thinking animals seem to forget the risks.

Horseback riding has one of the highest accident rates for minor injuries. When entering the Emergency room with a broken collar bone or other injury, most doctors and nurses just sigh when you tell them you ride horses. It is an every-day kind of occurrence.

Lots of people think of riding motorcycles as being highly dangerous, but in fact, riding horses ranks at about the same level! Imagine, on a motorcycle, you are traveling very quickly with nothing much between you and the ground. On a horse, you are traveling very quickly with nothing much between you and the ground. The only difference is that motorcycles are controlled by the driver. Horses have a mind of their own.

It is easy to forget how quickly things can go wrong. If your horse is a quiet animal who rarely startles, you might not think that anything could happen. But all it takes is a sudden noise, or something that catches his eye and he could be off and running, leaving you in the dirt. Even the quietest horse in the world has the potential to spook.

When training a performance horse the risk is even greater. The more fit the horse is, the more likely he is to have the athleticism to unseat his rider. Besides being fit, he is also more alert and has a higher chance of pulling something stupid in response to good spirits, or even having a temper tantrum over a movement he does not want to do.

World class dressage riders have been known to lose control of their horses, and dressage is the sport where control is of the essence. Jumper riders get ditched by their horses when they refuse a jump. An overexcited gaming horse can slip and fall in the middle of a pattern, and even a champion pleasure horse can stumble, catching his rider unaware.

And yet, thousands of adult riders refuse to wear helmets. They are hot, they are uncomfortable, and they don’t look cool. You name it, and the excuse is used. So many riders feel that they would never fall off, or that their horse would never pull anything stupid on them. And yet, as a rider becomes more experienced, the risk of injury during a fall tends to go up. This is because it generally takes something a lot bigger to get them off, and the potential for landing badly increases with the explosiveness of the situation.

All it takes is once, and you could suffer from a serious concussion, or worse. It is a fact that riders die every year from head impacts that would have caused little more than a serious headache if they had been wearing a helmet.

Additionally, as adults, we need to set a good example to young riders. How many kids feel that it is perfectly safe to hop on a horse without anything on their head? How many others can’t wait until they are 18 and no longer need to wear a helmet in the ring? If adults were more responsible about wearing helmets, perhaps the young riders would feel more comfortable about protecting their heads.

You only get one head. It is worth protecting.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298830&ca=Pets

Horse Color Genetics - What Color Will I Get? (Part 1) By Lydia K Kelly

Whether it is your first time breeding, or you have had many foals at your farm one of the most exciting things is not knowing exactly what you will get when the baby arrives. There are so many variables that it is impossible to predict how big your foal will be, whether it will have good conformation or whether it will have the potential for the discipline you bred it for. One question that always has owners guessing is what color the foal will be.

Interestingly enough, you can actually predict the likelihood of the foal turning out a specific color. While color prediction is not always 100% accurate, there are some color combinations that will give you a guaranteed outcome. How can we be so sure of this? It’s all in the genes.

Horses have two basic color genes; black (B) and red (b). All horses carry a combination of these two genes in a pair. The red gene is recessive to the black gene. This means that whenever you get a combination of black (B) and red (b) genes the black gene will express itself. So, a (BB) gene combination will result in a black horse; a (Bb) combination will also result in a black horse and a (bb) combination will result in a red horse.

If that is the case you may wonder why we don’t only have black and red horses. In addition to the base color genes there are special genes that modify color. If one of these genes are present it will cause the base color to be modified and the horse will turn out “a different color”.

The most common modifier is the Agouti gene. When the Agouti gene is present it modifies the black gene. A black horse with the Agouti modifier will fade leaving its points black and its body brown. This is of course the classic bay horse.

Other modifiers include the grey gene, the roan gene and the cream gene. Each of these genes causes the horse’s coat to change according to the instructions written into the DNA code. Because this complicates matters for now lets stick with the basic black (bay) and red genes. To simplify things for now I will use the term “black” to include bay horses. We will discuss the Agouti gene further in the next installment.

So how can you apply this to actual breeding? Let’s start with a simple scenario. You have a chestnut stallion (bb) and you breed it to a chestnut mare (bb). In this case both the stallion and the mare have two red genes. No matter which way you mix and match those genes the resulting foal will also have two red genes (bb). The resulting foal from this breeding will always be a chestnut.

(b) (b)
(b) (bb)
red (bb)
red
(b) (bb)
red (bb)
red

To make things a little more complicated we will now breed a black mare (BB) to a chestnut stallion (bb). Because both the mare and the stallion must contribute one gene the resulting foal will be (Bb) carrying one black and one red gene. The foal will be black in color but will have a recessive red gene.

Now let’s pretend that we breed the foal from the first scenario (bb) to the foal from the second scenario (Bb). Use the following diagram to see how the genes relate:

(b) (b)
(B) (Bb)
black (Bb)
black
(b) (bb)
red (bb)
red

As you can see from the diagram there are two color possibilities in this cross. When the foal receives both a red gene (b) from one side and a black gene (B) from the other, the foal will be born black (Bb). This means that you have a 50/50 chance of the foal being a chestnut or a black.

If you cross a homozygous (meaning that it has two copies of the B gene) black horse (BB) with a heterozygous (meaning that it has one copy of the B gene and one of the b gene) black horse as you might expect there would only be one possible color for the foal, black. This is because all of the color combinations would include at least one dominant black (B) gene.

(B) (B)
(B) (BB)
black (BB)
black
(b) (bB)
black (bB)
black

Of course this leaves one more combination, the (Bb) x (Bb) combination. In this case both the mare and stallion carry a recessive red gene but are black in color. While at a glance you might expect all the foals from this breeding to be born black this is where you get the odd surprise foal that is a bright chestnut. In fact 25% of all foals from this cross will be chestnut in color. That is because of the possibility of the foal getting a pair of red genes, one from each parent.

(B) (b)
(B) (BB)
black (Bb)
black
(b) (bB)
black (bb)
red

So now you can see where the basics of color genetics come into play when breeding horses. You now know that you will always get a chestnut foal when you breed two chestnut horses together. You also know that when you breed two blacks together you just might get the odd chestnut foal that crops up.

While color is far from the most important thing to consider when breeding, it is certainly one of the most predictable. With the advances in genetic research we are always finding more color specific genes and can predict color variations with increasing accuracy.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=299038&ca=Pets

Horse Riding - Practicing the Bent Line By Lydia K Kelly

A favorite trick of the course designer is to set up a bent line in the middle of an otherwise predictable course. Many horses and riders become so used to the straight lines that they are not prepared for the change of direction mid-line and the horse refuses the second jump.

To practice riding bent lines set up your arena as follows:

If you have the materials to set up six jumps, build three four-stride lines of jumps through the middle of your arena. One should be down the center line, and the others should be along each diagonal.

If you only have enough materials to build three jumps, place one jump on the center line at one end of the arena, and the other two jumps on the diagonal near the far end of the arena. There should be 60’ between the jump on the center line and the jumps on the diagonal (measuring from center to center).

All of the jumps should be built so that they can be safely jumped from either direction. Choose a height that both you and your horse are comfortable with. This exercise is for building confidence and experience, so height is not important.

Start out by introducing your horse to all of the jumps in the arena as straight lines or singles. This way he will be confident with them, and will not refuse the jumps because he is startled by them.

Now, starting with one of the jumps on the center line, plan a bent line to one of the two facing diagonal jumps. All of the distances should be set as 4 stride lines, so as long as you ride from the center of one jump to the center of the next, you should have four strides to work with.

There are two ways to ride a bent line. You can deliberately take the first jump on an angle so that you straighten the line between the jumps, but ask your horse to jump from an indirect approach. This is not always possible on a course, and can confuse an inexperienced horse, making him refuse the first jump in the line.

The second method is to ride the first jump as usual, then bend your horse to the second fence. This way he approaches both fences with a direct approach. To get this bend, you need to plan ahead. Many horses will simply continue to travel straight ahead, assuming that they are expected to jump the jump ahead of them. You need to show your horse that you are the one in charge, and let him know that you expect him to approach a different jump.

As you come to the first jump in your bent line, look ahead to the jump you intend to take you horse to. As soon as you land, ask your horse to bend towards the jump on the diagonal. He will likely take a stride or two straight ahead, but should soon turn so that he is heading directly towards the jump on the diagonal.

Continue to practice bending your horse to one of the diagonal jumps, changing the direction to which you bend so that he does not learn to anticipate. If you are using six jumps, be sure to ask your horse to take the straight line on occasion so that he learns that he must listen to you and be prepared for whatever comes his way. When using six jumps, don’t forget to alternate which direction you approach the jumps, making full use of both center line starting jumps.

Once your horse is confident with the bent lines, try adding more challenge by starting out with one of the diagonal jumps and bending to the jump on the center line. Horses who start out on a diagonal naturally expect to continue on that diagonal, so this is more difficult that the center line to diagonal bent line.

Finally, if you are doing very well, you can try a bent line from one diagonal fence to the facing diagonal fence. This requires a bit more planning as you will need to make an arc from one fence to the other, rather than merely bending the line.

Don’t forget that this is a big exercise and should be spread over a few sessions. Don’t over jump or overtire your horse. The six jump set-up is an excellent practice course and can be used for many different exercises. Be creative and adjust the heights and styles of the jumps to add more challenge as you progress.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298823&ca=Pets

Best Dog Breed - What I Recommend To My Friends By Adam Katz

To recommend a good dog breed to someone, you need to know two things:

1. You must have an in-depth and personal experience with many different breeds. And more specifically, you must have multiple experiences with each breed. When you've been training dogs professionally for about 10 years, you've seen pretty much everything cross your path, at least three or four times. And for the more popular breeds, you've had literally hundreds of experiences that can put you in a very good position to analyze the pro's and con's of each breed.

2. You need to understand both the wants and needs of the family who is looking to adopt a new dog. A couple who have very dominant personalities and no children will generally be able to handle a dog with more horsepower than would a quiet, submissive couple with a few small children.

That being said, here are the top five breeds I recommend to people I don't know very well:

1. Golden Retriever: These dogs have a soft, pliable and easily trainable temperament. They are very pain-resistant and very forgiving to the owner who accidentally steps on a toe or clumsily trips on the dog. Purchased from a good breeder, these dogs are a joy to own.

2. Poodle (any variety): These dogs score extremely high on both the trainability scale and on the intelligence scale. I'm always amazed at how quickly these dogs can pick up an new behavior. It's almost like communicating to a human in dog clothing. If it wasn't for the sissy factor, I'd probably own one myself. Professional dog trainers see very few dog owners who walk through the door with troubling behavior problems. If everyone owned a Poodle, we'd all be out of business.

3. Australian Shepherd: Not to be confused with the Australian Cattle Dog (also an excellent breed but not for the amateur or weak owner) the Australian Shepherd - if obtained from a quality breeder - is fantastic. I don't think that there is anything you can't train this breed to do.

4. Boston Terrier: These dogs are clean and quiet. They make a fantastic house dog and are very easy to get along with. A perfect companion for the elder dog owner, or just somebody who wants a very peaceful dog ownership experience with a breed that is not very demanding.

5. Shetland Sheepdog: Small, easily trainable and possessing a soft temperament, they are intelligent and - with the right training techniques - will learn new behaviors very quickly.

That's all for now, folks!
Adam

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=69166&ca=Pets

Stop Dog Barking By Adam Katz

Dear Mr. Katz,

I have a two year-old female Boxer named Amber and a six year-old female St. Bernard named Crystal. My question is regarding the Boxer, Amber. Whenever my husband and I sit down to eat dinner, watch TV, or when company comes over, she incessantly barks at us. She doesn't want to play with her toys and nothing can distract her from this barking. We try to correct her in a deep tone, but she only gets crazier; i.e.. jumping up, biting our clothes. From reading your book, it seems that she needs a motivational correction, such as her training collar. As of now, we do not leave it on her, except for when she is being walked. Should she be wearing the collar when we are home and she's in the house at all times? Can you please make any suggestions to correct this behavior so when we want to relax or have guests over, it's pleasant. She gets plenty of exercise and tons of attention. I'm not sure what to do. Thanks in advance!!

Christine

Dear Christine:

Remember the section on the pinch collar? And the emphasis I placed on how you will teach your dog to become, 'collar-smart' if you only use the pinch collar during walks?

Remember the part about consistency and how the dog MUST receive a negative association with ANY unwanted behavior? And how just saying, 'NO!' without attaching an association to the word will NOT produce any results? If not, please go back and re-read... it's in there!

'But Adam... the dog has since eaten the book! Please just give it to me, plain and simple!'

Okay... here it is: Your dog must be wearing the pinch collar and the tab ANYTIME you are with her. If you were a canine rather than a human you wouldn't need the pinch collar as you'd just go over to your dog and give her a nip on the neck.

Let's recap: When she barks you need to tell her, 'No!' and then give a firm tug on the leash. If she continues to bark, then either:

- Your correction didn't have any meaning to her...

Or...

- She's testing to see if you're going to correct her for barking THIS TIME just like you did LAST TIME. If your correction is motivational then you'll only need to do this two or three times before the problem stops forever.

That's all for now, folks!
Adam

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=68841&ca=Pets

Horse Tack - Taking Apart the Bridle By Lydia K Kelly

Understanding what all those Straps are for

While most horse people are familiar with what parts make up a bridle, it is remarkable how few truly understand what goes into it. With so many parts, it is no wonder that people don’t consider the reasons for them. In fact, it is not unusual to see someone throw together a simple bridle that does little more than hold the bit in the horse’s mouth, and ride off without a care.

So what are all those straps, and what are they for?

Probably the most often misunderstood part of the bridle is the noseband. Many people believe that the noseband is there to hold the horse’s mouth closed. Of course, if you look at the positioning of the noseband, it is quickly evident that no matter how tight you fasten it, the noseband could never hold the mouth shut.

Interestingly enough, the noseband is the least necessary part of the bridle. In fact, many western bridles skip it altogether. With very little actual functionality, the cavasson noseband is purely there for looks! With varieties ranging from broad to narrow, and from raised to flat, riders choose a look that best suits their horse. While there are specialty nosebands that are more than just decoration, the average bridle’s noseband isn’t really necessary at all.

So if the noseband is useless, what about the browband? While it often makes a fashion statement, much like the noseband, the browband is an essential part of the bridle. Without the browband, the crown piece would slip back down the horse’s neck, pulling on the bit, and making the bridle uncomfortable for the horse. While some western bridles only use a half browband, circling around one ear, the purpose is the same.

Another strap that sometimes seems useless is the throatlatch. While it seems obvious that it is there to hold the bridle on, generally the bridle will stay in place without the throatlatch at all. Basically it acts as a safety net, to hold the bridle in place should something happen that threatens to pull the bridle over the horse’s ears.

The cheek pieces have another obvious use. They act as the connection between the crown piece and the bit. But why do they need to be separate from the crown piece? Without separate check pieces it would be difficult to adjust the length of the bridle for different horses. With two adjustable cheek pieces, it is possible to fine tune the tightness of the bit in the horse’s mouth. A single buckle on the side would not allow for this fine tuning.

Of course the reins require no explanation. But, do most reins have a braided appearance? Is this more fashion? No. The laced part of the reins is there to offer the rider a better grip. When a horse becomes sweaty, the reins can become quite slippery. Some reins have alternate forms of grips such as rubber coating, small crosspieces or actual braiding of the leather. It is possible to find smooth reins, but they are uncommon.

So now you know the basics of what makes up a bridle. Each strap has its unique purpose, even if it is a frivolous one.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298828&ca=Pets

Different Types of English Saddles By Lydia K Kelly

Different Types of English Saddles

Once you have been riding for a while, you might find that you want to buy a saddle of your own. Taking a trip to the local tack shop is a great beginning, but it can be overwhelming to discover the wide range of English saddles available on the market. How do you know which style is best for your needs?

The following list describes the most common styles of English saddles available on the market. While you might find that one type is better for your needs than another, remember that comfort is highly important, and should not be compromised. Also consider that a saddle must also fit the horse you ride, and should be tried before making your final decision. Most tack stores will allow a buyer to try a saddle and return it if the saddle is not suitable. Just be prepared to pay for the saddle in advance in case of damage.

All-Purpose Saddle

Just like its name, an all-purpose saddle is designed to suit most English disciplines. Built with a mid-height pommel and cantle, all purpose saddles are fairly secure to ride in. Good-sized knee rolls with suede leather sections offer good grip and help the rider maintain a correct position. All-purpose saddles are great for beginning riders and riders who are not ready to specialize. More advanced riders may become frustrated with the padding, which can interfere with more advanced movements and rider positions.

Close Contact

A favorite of many hunter/jumper riders, close contact saddles do not have the padding that all-purpose saddles have. There is no knee roll, and the pommel and cantle are generally not as high. Beginners may feel lost and off balance in a close contact saddle as there is little to support their position. More advanced riders like the feel of the saddles, as they can feel the horse beneath them more easily.

Jumping Saddle

Designed for jumpers, this saddle has a flap that is cut forward, so that there is better support for the leg while using a shorter stirrup length. This can be quite important as riders challenge the large fences found in the advanced jumper ring. There is a fair bit of padding on the saddle, but it is positioned differently than on an all-purpose saddle. It is difficult to use a jumping saddle for extensive flat work, and most jumper riders have a second saddle for use during training on the flat.

Dressage Saddle

This is the style of saddle designed primarily for dressage riders. With long, straight flaps, the saddle support the longer stirrup length that dressage riders prefer. The cantle is generally fairly high, offering a lot of security to the rider. One interesting design difference in dressage saddles is the way the girth attaches. The long billets allow dressage girths to be very short in length, fastening below the flap, rather than beneath the rider’s leg. Likewise, the stirrup leathers are often designed to avoid large buckles. Dressage saddles are useless for jumping, but are necessary for more advanced levels of dressage. If a rider has no intention of jumping, the dressage saddle can be very comfortable, and helps a rider maintain position for dressage.

While there are many other styles of saddle available that can be used for English riding, these are the most common. Take your time and choose a saddle that not only fits your discipline, but also is comfortable and fits your horse. A saddle is an expensive investment, but if well chosen, can last you a lifetime.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298812&ca=Pets

Training Puppies - Are You Ready For a New Puppy? By Steve Samuel

Training puppies isn't easy and it's important that all potential owners know this before they make a big mistake. There are million of new puppy owners every year but few are ever prepared for the amount of responsibility owning a puppy requires. And to help those new owners out, this article will reveal some helpful tips to determine whether or not they are ready for the responsibilities of training a puppy.

The first thing a potential new owner must consider is whether or not they have the time. Owning a puppy is as close to having a child as it gets. They act the same way and have the same tendencies. They both need to be fed and need to be watched while they eat. They both need to cleaned up after accidents. They both need to be constantly watched to avoid any bad situations. And there are no puppy training tips that can prepare new owners for the time commitment.

The second thing a potential new owner needs to consider is to whether they have the patience. Puppies will continuously test an owner's patience. That's because they don't understand commands. You tell them no, and they have no idea what that means. And training puppies to learn these commands is not easy. Not only that, puppies have tons of energy and will do things that will annoy owners constantly. And after a while, they may have the urge to quit, but that isn't an option. This is a living, breathing animal that has feelings just like a human. Training puppies takes a lot of patience and new owners need to be able to determine whether they can stay patient.

The third thing a potential new owner needs to consider is to whether they have the money. Although they aren't nearly as expensive as new born babies, puppies still cost a lot of money. Training tools, vet visits, toys, food, and many other items will cost quite a bit of money. The more commitment you have to training a puppy, the more money it will cost. And before a potential owner can even consider finding puppy training tips, they need to determine whether the costs will be too much.

The final thing a potential new owner needs to aware of is why they want to get a puppy. So many people want puppies because they are cute or because they love to play with them, but that isn't a good enough reason to become an owner. Do people try to have kids because of the same reasons? Of course not. Before an owner can start thinking about training puppies, they must know why they feel a puppy is needed in their lives. And if it's a reason that will get owners through the tough times, then they are ready to become a new owner.

Although there are many other factors prior to even considering owning a puppy, the three factors above are generally what determines if they will become an owner. Training a puppy is not an easy task and if you are a potential owner, make sure you can pass the three factors above. Make sure you understand that owning a puppy isn't simple and isn't something that can be made easier with puppy training tips. A puppy is a living being and not something that can be thrown away. So take your time to make sure that you are ready for training puppies.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=297852&ca=Pets

Is That Dog Food in My Bowl? By Lori Matthews

The phrase, 'putting on the dog' refers to people who try to appear wealthy or more important than they really are. If you were to walk down the dog food aisle in a supermarket or pet store, the front of the bags would sound very impressive, assuring you of complete nutrition for every stage of a canine's life. But in reality, many of these pet food companies are guilty of 'putting on the dog'. Before you put anything 'in' your dog, flip those bags of dog food over to read the fine print.

Do you want your dog to be healthy, obedient and live to a good old age? Scientists determined that dogs have the potential to live to 20 years, but in reality, most canine companions struggle beyond the 10-year mark. Veterinarians are seeing an increasing number of heart and respiratory disease, joint problems and diabetes. The shelters are full of dogs that left their 'forever homes' because they exhibited hostile and even violent behavior.

All of these health and emotional issues could have a solid basis in the type and quality of food these dogs have been given. It's not enough to merely fill up a bowl with any dog food so your pet doesn't go hungry. Dog owners need to evaluate what's going into the dog's dish because those ingredients can mean a better life or one that is filled with health issues.

Buy a premium dog food. Generally, this type of food is not sold in supermarkets and not even at your veterinarian’s office. There are a few exceptions where you will find top quality foods at these establishments.

Before making a selection of dog food, turn the bags over and read the list of ingredients. The first 5 ingredients make up the bulk of the dog food so take note. If more than 2 of them contain grain products, like corn or wheat, the food is mostly vegetable protein, which provides less in the way of nutrition. Dogs who eat this type of food will have more bowel movements because their bodies are not absorbing a high level of nutrients and these ingredients are processed as waste.

If the bag lists 'by-products' it's best to leave it on the shelf. By-products of animals can mean the head, feet and intestines. There is practically zero nutritional value in this ingredient. Look for chicken 'meal' or lamb 'meal' which actually provides a greater degree of animal protein.

Avoid foods that contain preservatives, like BHT or BHA. They can be harmful to your pet's health. Canned food often contains more preservatives because they are needed to keep the food fresh. Additionally, canned food has a high water content and that should be factored into your dog food buying decision. Dogs do very well on dry dog food alone, and the crunching action helps to keep their teeth cleaner.

If you want to give your dogs treats, the same rules apply. Check the list of ingredients. Try not to get your dog 'hooked' on cheap treats with no nutritional value because that may make it difficult to offer a premium dog food that is not artificially enhanced with flavor additives.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298242&ca=Pets

Can Dog Aromatherapy Products Change Your Pets Mood? By Amy Nut

Aromatherapy has been used for decades to soothe human beings, but more recently, pet owners are realizing the incredible value of using dog aromatherapy to help dogs live happier, more contented lives.

What is Dog Aromatherapy?

The concept of aromatherapy isn't a new one. Smells affect us drastically and since dogs have a far keener sense of smell, it stands to reason that aromas would have a powerful effect on them as well. Dog aromatherapy is possibly even more effective than human aromatherapy for this very reason.

The use of essential oils and essential oil blends is the basis of aromatherapy of all types. However, it isn't necessary to use it as is. Many products exist for applying the essential oil in a more diluted fashion. Using shampoo or a specially formulated spray for your dog can work wonders. Often pet owners find that combining a warm bath with a good aromatherapy blend is the best way to treat their dogs.

This method of treating your dog has many benefits, but perhaps the biggest one is simply that dog aromatherapy is all natural and uses ingredients that your pet will love and that won’t irritate allergies.

Does It Actually Work?

You may be skeptical about the effect of dog aromatherapy, but it is definitely worth a try. If your dog tends to be hyper or nervous and anxious, try giving him a bath with a soothing essential oil soap and you'll notice a big difference.

Calming a pet isn't the only use for dog aromatherapy, though. In fact, there are so many uses for this wonderful therapy that no matter why your dog’s mood, you can improve it.

- Increase appetite. For dogs who aren't interested in food, a good aromatherapy treatment can boost their appetite and get them eating again.

- Soothing. For the nervous dog, a calming treatment works wonders and can even help your dog sleep better.

- Energizing. For older, lethargic dogs, the right scent can perk them right up and give them some extra pep. This is a very handy way to energize your tired canine before a walk.

- Healing. When your dog isn't in good health, it`s hard to know what to do for them, but there are dog aromatherapy treatments for many of the more common ailments, including nausea and cough.

- Pain relief. For dogs with arthritis, aromatherapy can be very effective in alleviating the pain and making them more comfortable.

A great benefit that most pet owners don't consider before getting into dog aromatherapy is that they will also be affected by the aromas. If you are using a peppermint essential oil to energize your dog, you’ll find yourself having more energy, as well! It’s a fun side effect of treating your dog and can be very relaxing as you share this experience with your canine friend. Choose essential oil blends that you can both enjoy for a true bonding experience.

Dog aromatherapy may be a fairly new addition to pet therapies, but it is an effective one. Experiment with different essential oil blends and products to find which ones work best with your dog. While you could mix your own, it’s often best to opt for a professionally formulated and tested product that is designed with specific benefits in mind. As more people become aware of how great it is for their dogs to benefit from this new therapy, more products are becoming available. This means more options for dog aromatherapy in your own home.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298785&ca=Pets