Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Website Builder Reviews The Affiliate Genie Is Here

The website builder
reviews - Affiliate Genie.

The affiliate genie is a new website builder that is sure to be a huge success. Why? Because it is SO easy to use. Plus, it has many of the features of Wordpress, but without the need to create a database...this confused a lot of newbies out there. All you do is this:

1. Get a domain name

2. Open your favorite FTP program and send one file folder to your domain (instructions are included on this, it's very easy)

3. Go to: whateveryourdomainnameis(dot)com/admin.php - type that in your browser

4. Log in with your user name and password and you are ready to make a site!

The builder uses a what you see is what you get easy interface and you can also toggle between html. You can easily add any content you want. And the features....WOW!

Affiliate genie automatically creates a sitemap and rss feeds for your website. If you don't know what this is, don't worry. You want it. It helps Google and other search engines find your site and index it fast! Also, every time you add content, affiliate genie will auto ping whatever sites you set it to.. this is just like Wordpress blogs do. Instantly letting the search engines know you updated your site. It's like screaming "rank me higher!".

On top of that, you can have visitors add comments and rate your products if you'd like. This builds trust and helps makes sales, if that's what you want to do.

Which brings up a good point. Affiliate genie was made by an internet marketer for internet marketers. It's purpose was to create websites that sell products effectively and it works. BUT, you can make any kind of website you want with this website builder. You are not limited to affiliate sites.

If you would like to learn more about this website builder, just go to the link below. That site was made with affiliate genie. I also offer a bonus if you order there.. I will tell you exactly how I get my websites
to number 1 in Google!

Monday, November 23, 2009

Preparing to Send a Horse to a Trainer By Lydia K Kelly

Lydia K Kelly

Sending a horse away for training can be pretty stressful, especially if you don’t know what to send with him. Fortunately, it doesn’t need to be all that bad. With some planning ahead, and smart packing, your horse will soon be off to school, and you can relax and know that he’s all packed.


Feed


If your horse is on a special feed, you may want to keep him on it while away. Ask the trainer what they usually feed, and ask if you can send your own. Some trainers will give a discount on their board if you supply your own feed, so be sure to ask up front.


Pack your feed in a large plastic garbage bin with a lid that seals. The ones with wheels work the best as they are easy to move around, even when full. You can use a permanent marker on the lid to write your horse’s name and how much feed he gets. Include a scoop so that the measurements will be accurate. Make sure your horse’s name is on the scoop too, so it won’t go missing.


Finally, if your horse requires any supplements or medications, you should include them with the feed. Once again, write the dosage and your horse’s name on the container.


Equipment


Usually a trainer will use her own saddles and bridles. If your horse needs custom tack, you will probably want to send it along with him. You can get your name installed on the cantle of your saddle at your local tack shop so that it can’t be mistaken for someone else’s saddle. If you have a special bit or bridle you can send it along too, but always ask the trainer before sending any tack. Bridles can be labeled with a name plate over the crown.


Your horse will of course need a halter. The halter should be correctly fitted to your horse and should have his name clearly marked on it. It should be in good repair. Some trainers will insist on a leather halter, but most will leave it to the owner’s preference. Find out if the barn leaves halters on for turn-out or in the stall. If they do, consider a break-away crown piece made from leather or a leather halter.


While a leadrope might be necessary at some trainers’ facilities, most barns have their own leads. Yours will likely grow legs and walk, so it is better to leave it at home. Fly masks are a good addition in the summer, but once again should be clearly labeled with permanent marker. If your horse requires boots or bandages for turn-out or when working, include them, but make sure your horse’s name is on them.


Should your horse require blanketing, send along any blankets he wears. Make sure that they are in good repair and are labeled. The fewer blankets you send, the better. Many barns do not like complicated blanketing plans, so do your best to keep things simple.


Paperwork


Something many people may not think of is including paperwork with their horse. Make up a binder to hold this information and clearly mark it with both your name and your horse’s name. One page should include information about your horse: his barn name, his registered name, his age, his breed, his height, his color, any markings, any special needs he might have. Another page should have all of your information: your name, address, phone number, an emergency contact. This page should also include the contact information for your vet and farrier. While the trainer may prefer to use her own vet and farrier, she may need to contact yours in an emergency. A third page should include all your horse’s usual care routines. Discuss his turn-out routine, current training schedule, feed schedule, and any quirks he may have.


Sometimes a horse that goes to a trainer is for sale. If so, include in the binder information about your horse that would be suitable to give to a potential buyer. Make at least 10 copies of the sales sheet so the trainer does not have to worry about giving out the only copy. Include a photocopy of your horse’s papers if he is registered.


Another thing to consider is that your trainer may ask for a commission if she finds a buyer for your horse. Make sure that you have a clear contract for the sale ready and have your trainer sign it. You will also want to include a copy of the boarding/training agreement in the binder and some kind of a liability waiver that keeps the trainer or her staff from suing you should they be injured by your horse.


Extras


Generally, the less you send with your horse the better. Anything you send has the potential to get lost, so try not to send anything too valuable. Consumables like fly spray will likely be used on the other horses, so don’t expect it to be kept exclusively for your horse’s use. Label everything clearly with permanent marker to reduce the chance of losing it and to minimize illegitimate use. Find out how much space will be available to your horse for his equipment, and send along a safe container in which to store his things. An alternate idea is to get a cloth bag which could be hung from his halter hook, or from the blanket rack.


Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298009&ca=Pets

Sunday, November 22, 2009

What Should A Weanling Know? By Lydia K Kelly

Lydia K Kelly

When you wean your foal, he should already know how to lead. He should have the basics of being groomed in his stall, and should have been introduced to the vet and farrier. But what more can you do with him once his mother has been taken away?


While a foal learns to lead with his mother, he may not yet be comfortable leading on his own. You will need to work with him to teach him to move forward when asked without having another horse to lead the way. By spending a few minutes a day leading him by himself, you can quickly help him to understand that he must go where you want him to, and not necessarily where the other horses are going.


Because he learned to lead with his dam, it is very easy to teach a foal to lead with another horse. It is generally best to start with a mature horse as it is hard to manage two silly babies at once, while a mature horse is likely to remain calm and stabilize your weanling should he become spooked by something.


Take the time to work with your weaning by taking him on walks around the property. Start out with another horse, so that he does not become afraid by himself, but then progress to leading him on his own. Keep the sessions short. Weanlings have no attention span. Always end on a good note.


While it is still too early to tie your horse, take the time to teach him to stand still in the aisle. When grooming him in his stall, ask him to remain in one place, instead of allowing him to wander. This way, he will already be used to staying put, and will accept being tied more easily.


If you can, take your weanling on a trip or two in the trailer. Borrow a calm older horse who trailers well, and take them for s short jaunt around the block. The trip does not need to be long, but it should be pleasant.


It is also a good idea to introduce your weanling to blankets and bandages. Use a no-chew spray to teach him that it isn’t fun to eat them. Bandage him or blanket him, then let him hang out in his stall for a while. Keep an eye on him at first, to make sure that he does not panic.


Continue grooming him regularly, and introduce the clippers. Work on getting him to hold his feet up longer, and try gently pulling his mane. It will take a few sessions to do a good job. It is better to keep the sessions short and sweet than to rush them.


While handling your weanling is important, make sure that he gets tons of turn-out and does not become frustrated with overlong sessions. He is still a baby and needs to enjoy himself. He has lots to learn about being a horse, and spending time outside with his buddies is an essential part of his training.


Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298156&ca=Pets

Saturday, November 21, 2009

What Should a Yearling Know? By Lydia K Kelly

Lydia K Kelly

By the time a horse is a year old, he is already getting pretty big. It is difficult to train him if he does not already have solid foundations. He should already know how to lead, stand for being groomed, and behave for the vet and farrier.


The next stage is to teach your horse how to tie. It is important to wait until he is at least a year old before tying, as it takes time for the spine to mature enough to cope with the stress of a possible accident. Youngsters also tend to be more prone to silliness and are more likely to have problems with breaking away.


It is easiest to start with teaching your horse to crosstie. If you have worked with him at standing still for grooming, he will already know that he should stand quietly as you brush him. Stand him in the aisle, where you have the crossties set up, and groom him while holding the lead rope. Keep him standing in place, as though he were tied.


Once he is comfortable with this, add the crossties. Keep a lead rope attached to him, and hold it as you groom. If he steps out of line, gently ask him to return to where he was standing. If he does pull back on the ties, be sure to correct with the lead rope before he overstresses the crossties. As he gets used to the idea, throw the lead over your horse’s neck so that it is still close at hand, but you are not actively holding him. Finally, you can remove the lead, and he should stand quietly in the crossties.


You can continue your training in hand with your yearling. You can take him for walks around the farm, and work with him in the ring. Many shows have classes for showmanship or for conformation on the line. Take the time to teach your horse to trot in hand, and to stand up for the judge.


Line shows are a great way to prepare your baby for his future as a performance horse. He will get a chance to see what horse shows are all about in a low-stress environment. Go out for the experience, and not for the prizes. You can even go out to shows without actually going in the ring, just walking around the show grounds and letting your youngster experience the show grounds.


Other fun things to try include walking your horse over poles, teaching him to free longe and teaching him to free jump. Make sure that you keep things low impact, and don’t overdo it. Yearlings do not have a lot of patience and will easily get burned out.


Whatever your do, remember, yearlings are not mature enough to be ridden. Don’t even think about getting on his back, even if he looks big and strong. Serious damage can be done to a yearling if he is ridden. It is worth taking the time to wait until he is mature enough to hold your weight without injury.


Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=298158&ca=Pets